Look for the manufacturers name or logo on the garage door handle. If not there may be a manufacturers label on the inside of the garage door panel, Garador, Henderson, Cardale, Catnic, Westland etc.

If you are unsure, please e-mail us some clear images of the part required. Also images of the handle, gearing and overview of the garage door inside and outside will aid us in trying to identify the part for you.

Images can be e-mailed to info@onlinegaragedoorspares.com with your name, account number (if applicable) and contact details. Please reduce (compress) the size of the image if possible before sending.

Measure the width and height of the garage door panel, not the garage opening or overall frame size. Measurements can be provided in imperial or metric but always width first, then height. For example 7’0”x6’6” or 2134×1981.

The style of garage door is the design of the panel. For example horizontally or vertically ribbed, Georgian panelled etc.

Garage door manufacturers are constantly improving and upgrading their gearing. How old the garage door is can give a good indication of what gearing was used and what garage door spares are available whether they are genuine or a suitable pattern equivalent. When the house was built is not always the same year the garage door was manufactured.

Traditional canopy gearing has a torsion spring along the top of the garage door with cones and cables going down to the roller spindles. When in the open position the garage door will have about a third of the panel protruding from the garage to form a small “canopy”. Canopy gearing is generally used on single garage doors (the double Henderson Merlin and Garador DC garage doors being the exception).

Delta type canopy gearing has large springs either side but still forms the canopy.
Retractable gearing has springs either side. The roller spindles are at the top of the panel and it fully retracts back into the garage.

Both gearing types can be described as “up and over”.

Provide as much information as possible when describing your spring to the sales team as this will allow us to identify your spring type and advise you accordingly. Please mention as much of the below information as possible along with the manufacturer, size, style and material of the garage door. Although some garage door springs look identical and have all the same measurements there can be several different strengths of the same spring to suit different weights of garage door panel.

• The length over the coils (excluding the hooks/eyes)
• Diameter
• Number of coils
• Where are the springs located on the garage door
• Colour of spring or any coloured bands and how many
• Number of springs on the garage door
• Any numbers either attached on a tag or stamped on the spring
• Single or spring within a spring
• Any plastic covers
• Any pulley wheels attached
• Is there an adjuster bolt that screws into the spring

If you are unsure, please e-mail us some clear images of the part required. Also images of the handle, gearing and overview of the garage door inside and outside will aid us in trying to identify the part for you.
Images can be e-mailed to info@onlinegaragedoorspares.co.uk with your name and contact details. Please reduce (compress) the size of the image if possible before sending.

Although they all look similar in appearance and essentially serve the same function, they are all different in various ways. Some of the main differences are the length and thickness of cable and some have a loop at one or both ends where others have stop ends. This depends on whether the cable is looped over the spindle or clips into a bracket or anti-drop sprung system. These variants are the difference between the parts fitting and making the garage door functional again or not fitting, so correct identification is essential.

If one cable has broken it is important not to cut the cable on the other side. This would cause the canopy torsion spring to unwind and would require re-tensioning (kits available depending on manufacturer), some canopy torsion springs are re-tensioned using a spanner. It is always advisable to replace both cables at the same time which is why Sparesmaster sells these items in pairs but always remember to replace the broken cable first and to use the tension retaining pin or “crook pin” provided. Instructions are available on the Downloads page.

Things to check:

• Has the correct part been identified
• Are there any other tools required – re-tensioning kits, pin punches etc.
• Are the roller spindles worn as this would be a good time to replace them

Online Garage door spares offer pin punches to aid in replacing cone and cable sets.

When describing which hand side the part is located, this is always as viewed from inside the garage looking out. This is regardless of what manufacturer, gearing type, style etc.

The most useful information to obtain for handset identification is the manufacturer and frequency or megahertz MHz, not the hertz Hz. The older frequencies used a static coding, the more modern handsets use a more secure rolling code (not compatible with each other). The manufacturer name will be on the handset or on the operator unit inside the garage on the side of the head casing or under the light cover. For roller shutter garage doors with tubular motors, there should be a control box where information can be found. This is also where the frequency should be however some are depicted by the colour of buttons. There have been various operators through the years that have been sold without any radio controls so suppliers and installers can add on their own external receivers, in this case the manufacturer and frequency of the receiver is the relevant information. Some handsets like spare parts can look similar or identical which can be confusing.

Some of the older static code handsets can be cloned on to a Remocon mini TX4 depending on the frequency. A working original would need to be provided so the frequency of the Remocon can be tuned to the same as the original. The code can then be taken and cloned/copied to the new Remocon handset for use.
Another option if the cloning is not viable would be to use a receiver upgrade. A new receiver can be wired to the motor unit/control panel provided there are the correct terminals. Our Remocon receiver requires 18-24v power output and bell push terminals to work. If there isn’t a power output or you are unsure what the volt rating is Sparesmaster also offers an impulse socket receiver which plugs into the mains and wires to the bell push terminals. This is particularly useful for Cardale Autoglides where remote control handsets are obsolete/no longer available.
The other option would be to replace the complete electric garage door or gate system. Although this is more expensive it does come with long term benefits:

• Warranty*
• Two handsets as standard*
• Spare parts/service items available
• Radio controls and other accessories available*

*dependant on manufacturer

Replacing remote control handsets or upgrading the receiver unit is the most economical however there is no guarantee the electric operator unit and/or rail won’t fail with the possibility of replacements being obsolete.
View images of various discontinued remote control handsets with links to compatible replacements, receiver kits or contact us if you are having difficulty locating a replacement or need advice.

All handsets will require coding to the electric operator or receiver. This can be done via a “learn” button or in the menu set up, from handset to handset. For older systems the dipswitches will have to be altered to match the original handset or receiver. The handsets should come with coding instructions and some are available on the Downloads page.
If a handset has been lost it is always recommended the electric garage door/gate system or receiver is wiped of all codes. Any remaining handsets would then require re-programming.
All radio controls including wireless wall controls (push buttons), keypads and code switches require programming and the procedure may be slightly different depending on the product and manufacturer.

Have you checked the battery as this may need replacing?
The handset may require reprogramming.
There could be interference, more commonly from electrical equipment in the garage, nearby computer network systems or radio/mobile masts.
There could be an issue with the circuit board/receiver board.
The handset could be faulty.

Yes, a wired keypad (keyless entry system) can be used as long as there are bell push terminals (usually common and relay) on the garage door operator to wire into. We offer a battery powered system by Domino.

It is always recommended to replace either the lock barrel or complete handle if a key is lost, who knows who might find it!

• Is it a ‘T’ handle, flush lock or eurolock handle
• Is the shaft diamond 45° or square 90°
• Length of shaft/spindle and does it have a drilled end
• The measurement between the spigot/hole centres
• Length of spigots
• Can the barrel be replaced, if yes is it a euro profile cylinder held in place with a screw (eurolock barrel) or a round barrel held in place with a circlip
• Is it a “thumbpress” lever type handle with separate Z.A “cabinet” lock

The manufacturer, gearing type (canopy, retractable, sectional etc.), age and whether they are fixed in place with a nut or circlips. Also the length and diameter of spindle and diameter of the roller.

The answer would be yes. Although a conversion arm, or “bow” arm would be required. Because of the forces involved in canopy operation, Sparesmaster recommends the use of the Chamberlain Liftmaster 5580 chain drive as this is an AC motor which provides a constant push/pull force unlike a DC motor which has a soft start, soft stop feature. Delta type canopy gear C150/300 does not require a conversion arm for automation.

The answer would be yes. Although a pair side hinged conversion arms would be required. One arm to be connected to each garage door leaf. Some manufacturers such as Hormann have a “reverse” boom available (special order) for such an application. On a conventional up and over or sectional electrically operated garage door, the trolley travels towards the garage door to close. On a side hinged electrically operated garage door, the trolley travels towards the garage door to open. This depends on the configuration to be an equal 50:50 split.

If the garage door is electrically operated and there is no second entrance then this is an essential rather than an optional extra. In the event of a power failure and there is no battery back up facility, or a fault with the operator there would be no easy way to open the garage door as the rail/boom locks the garage door in place. The emergency release would be connected to the toggle device on the trolley. Pulling on the cable connected to the toggle will disengage the trolley/carriage block from the boom to enable manual operation of the garage door. Sparesmaster supplies several different types of releases, from externally mounted in flat and round key versions to handle release options.

This is a common problem and more times than not, the trolley/carriage block release has been activated for manual operation and has not been re-engaged. This is easy to rectify as the toggle requires flipping back or it may be a button on some models, this can vary but the principle remains the same.

This can be caused by something in the way of the door closing as modern operators have a force sensitivity safety setting. Another cause is if the running gear requires maintenance, either there is a sticking point on the garage door travel or after a while, the garage door springs lose some of their tension so will require adjusting or replacing. If the door is difficult to operate manually then the electric operator will struggle. A smooth operation relies on the garage door being well maintained and balanced correctly. The force settings on the operator may require adjusting and possibly the limits.

We has a wide range of pattern garage door spares available for older garage doors that are no longer in production. If a suitable replacement can’t be found then it may be possible to remove the existing gearing to be replaced with a complete gearing pack. This can be more economical than replacing the whole garage door and it will be more modern and reliable with spares available for years to come. Gusset or corner plates may also be required to provide additional fixing points for link arms, roller spindle brackets etc. The link arms stick out into the opening reducing the drive through width. The weight and size of garage door panel is crucial in supplying the correct gear pack as used packs cannot be returned. Please contact us for further details.

Garage doors require servicing and maintenance to keep the running gear operating smoothly and to prolong the life of the parts. We offer Garage Door Lube and 3 in 1 oil for use on the garage door roller spindles, pivot arms etc. This should be undertaken on a regular basis at least once a year or twice depending on use. If the garage door lock requires lubricating we recommend the use of Graphite Powder as this cannot freeze, protects against sticking and dirt build up which is a problem oil use can cause.